Monday, 28 October 2013

The Cornwall Project @ The Dissenting Academy - Newington Green

92 Mildmay Park, London, N1 4PR

"I've had to work hard every day of my life, and what do I have to show for it?  This briefcase and this haircut! And what do you have to show for your lifetime of sloth and ignorance? Everything! A dream house! Two cars! A beautiful wife! A son who owns a factory!  Fancy clothes and lobsters for dinner."
- Frank Grimes, Homer's Enemy (4F19)

(This review also appears on Hoxton Radio)

If the lion is king of the jungle and steak the king of meat, then lobster is king of the sea. Delicate in flavour, substantial in texture, lobster when cooked well is a silky delight that can't fail to please anyone. Served alongside thinly cut hot chips and cold mayonnaise, as it was at The Cornwall Project*, perfection on a plate is a cliché that can definitely be rolled out here.

This wasn't the only triumph at The Cornwall Project - a pop-up kitchen occupying the candle-lit and cartoon-strewed Dissenting Academy, nestled in the corner of Newington Green. Starting with an (unfortunately shared) plate of scallops and finishing with a chocolate and pear dessert, this was food at it's finest. Incredible stuff for a pub, food that wouldn't look out of place at the sort of table-clothed and silver-cutleried place where I'd be asked to leave before making it through the door. The other seemingly endless number of gastropubs in Stoke Newington should take note and start to worry that The Cornwall Project doesn't take root here and grow.

*Disclaimer: The lobster was on the house.

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